Climbs listed on Mountain Project and Calderone's LCC book. Caledrone calls everything in Tanner's Gulch either "Left" or "Right" depending on which side of the gulch the wall is on, as you head up the gulch from the road. Mountain Projects lists various walls on either side by names.
The routes here are mostly 5.6-5.7, but some harder lines to 5.11(ish). The routes are mostly runout; the lines on the main slab all appear to be J-Tree levels of runout, and the gear is terrible. There are pitons and bolts; both rusty.
There is a SINGLE BOLTED STATION above the early broken ground. Gear in the broken ground is terrible. Look for a piton in the left half, where you must be more left looking right to see it. This is the best, most protected line to the chains. From the chains, there are multiple (RUNOUT!!!) lines with some pitons, bolts, and SPARSE trad gear up to a second pitch. The MP images show belay spots, which are trad anchors - terrible trad anchors.
Difficult to top-rope much on the slab, as the belay spots do NOT have fixed anchors. Need to add pitons or bolts for more stations above the big roof for some top-rope fun. Note that the gear on the slab is really tricky, so not sure you can build good trad anchors where desired. Bring the bolt kit and/or pitons next time....
Also, the rock getting onto the roof was very loose with lots of dead wood. Cleaned off the rocks, most of the dirt, and the dead wood with trundling this past Friday in July 2026.
Fun, with excellent roof moves. Pitons are fixed, rusty, and probably fine.
Approach from the Needles Lodge: after getting off the Gondola, head away from the gondola line and lodge on the road, trending around the small hill directly in front at the gondola tower. Once around the small hill, head up the grassy field to the base of the large slabs.
There are now at least 7 routes on the wall, of which 3 are on Mountain Project. This is the next-to-last route on the right. Belay from the grassy ledge below the low-angle (4th class) terrain, or up and right just below and right of the steep slab with bolt 1. First bolt is just above 2 grass clusters, and the line is right of the large overhang void on the right side of the wall.
Pitch 1 has 9 bolts. Drilled on lead. Easy friction to bolt 4, then stand up and clip the bolt over the roof. Roof moves are the crux - thin feet with big committing moves to terrible hands or hold the 2nd draw for a 5.7 A0 cheat. Straight above through the bushy ledge through 2 more bolts to the 2-bolt station with chains; 35 m from grassy ledge, 30 m from right side belay stance.
Pitch 2 starts up and left from the belay, with 5.7+ friction/face moves through the next 2 bolts. Then up and right on easy ground, but LOOSE ROCK ON THE FACE! BEWARE! Easier ground above, with possible gear to supplement 3 pitons from 2023 (first ascent). More loose rock. Total of 5 bolts, 3 pitons, and any supplemental gear you can find. 30 m to 2-bolt station.
From the top of the 2nd pitch, easy ground leads to the ridgeline for views and photos. Possible walk off beyond the ridge to the trail down from the Grey Slabs back to the gondola station; this has not been explored. MP suggests rapping the line.
Descent: Rappel the face. Can rappel back to the P1 anchors, but there is another route with anchors 35m below the P2 anchors that is more straight down. A 30 m rappel from these alternate bolts gets to the grassy ledge below the slabs.