Day 1 (26 May 2001)
Leave Ipsut Creek campground at ~0830 towards the Wonderland Trail and the upper crossing of the Carbon River. Wearing leather boots/hikinh shoes because Helen will carry our plastics until we hit snow, and then go down with our light boots.
Once on the Wonderland Trail, followed towards Mystic Lake. Digressed from the trail before the lake, following Curtis Ridge.
Dropped from the ridge onto Carbon Glacier @ ~7200'. Normally, this would be just before the first cliff band that sticks above the ridge crest. This time, the major trail left the ridge well before this cliff band, to make it easier to cross to the west side of the glacier.
Due to the low snow, crossed to the W side of Carbon Glacier, and followed the trail to the top of the glacier (~9000'). Bivy site was between the rock fall and ice fall paths, on the W side of Liberty Ridge. While approaching bivy site, ice fall from Liberty Wall occurred. Trail crosses the avalanche path, but the slides stopped ~600' short of trail. If caught, there is no where to run or hide. Rock fall from Liberty Ridge was serious during the afternoon.
Total distance for day 1: ~7000' vertical, 11 miles. Reached camp at ~18:00.
Day 2 (27 May 2001)
Start walking at ~07:30. Climbed ridge from the W to Thumb Rock. Mostly rock at these elevations; little snow or ice until Thumb Rock itself. Rock fall less in the morning, but still non-trivial. Moderate slope to Thumb Rock.
Cross to E side of Liberty Ridge @ Thumb Rock (go left). Now all on snow and ice, and less falling debris of all sorts. Occasional ice/snow from other party members. Rock and ice fall significant on either side of the ridge; Willis Wall looked like a death trap by the afternoon. Steep slope (40+)
Climbed crest of ridge, just to the E of the spine, and stayed on snow and ice. At Black Pyramid (highest triangular rock outcrop on ridge), continued closer to ridge crest to bergschrund. Still steep.
Ascend bergscrhund - crux of the route. Vertical ice & snow, requiring ice screws and pickets for protection. Phil led on belay; Chad followed with ice tool and ascender on fixed line. Paul eventually followed on ascenders, after enormous difficulty with the vertical ice lip.
Climb to near top of Liberty Ice Cap, but then retreated to bivy site @ ~13,900'. Wind picked up and very late, so the summit was not a viable option. Stop to setup camp @ ~20:00.
Day 3 (28 May 2001)
Start @ ~08:00. Climb Liberty Ice Cap (14,112') and continue to SE down onto saddle (~13,640'). Very high winds; sustained 80 mph (estimate), gusts of 100+ mph (measured by NPS @ summit). Winds from the W, directly across the ridge. No clouds.
Ascend slope to crater rim (~14,330'). Very thin ice over loose rock; poor conditions for ice tools and crampons. Wind blowing harder than on Liberty Cap, and directly down slope near crest.
At crater rim (skyline seen from saddle), estimate 80' vertical below the summit. Summit (Columbia Crest, 14,410') immediately to right. Chad was very unhappy so the summit was skipped. Waved to the summit. Crater rim was totally dry - no snow or ice at all. Wind-driven sand and rock very annoying.
Time at the crater rim was ~10:30-11:30. Begin descent
Drop from the crater rim to the crater floor, and cross to the other side. Crater floor covered in snow, with less wind (60 mph?).
Cross far rim and descend to Winthrop Glacier. Follow marked path to Cathedral Gap. Blowing snow and ice, although lower speed (40-60 mph). Trail was followable, although obscured by blowing snow.
Follow trail over 3 crevasses to "high camp" above Camp Muir, and then to Camp Muir itself. Stopped for a break and to remove rope, harness, and crampons. Remainder of descent on snowfields, so no need for pro.
From Camp Muir, follow bearing 142 Off Magnetic North (OMN) to "Moon Rocks". Then change bearing to 148 OMN. Trail is well marked with wands and depression in the ice. Moderate winds (20-60 mph) with heavy snow and cloud component. 25-30' visibility max. Goggles helped a lot.
Arrive @ Paradise Lodge @ 16:30, and meet Helen with the car. Dance with joy after removing pack. Done.
Random Notes
| Call | Meaning |
|---|---|
| zero! | Stop |
| clear! | Go |
Gear List