Gear to acquire
  • Expedition pack- Gregory Makalu Pro, Arc'Tyrx Khamsin 62, Vortex STX or Mountainsmith Auspex
  • Snow & Ice pro- 4+ snow pickets, a couple ice screws (2-3?)
  • hammer device for driving pickets- ice tool perhaps?
  • runners for the snow protection- rabbit runners are awfully nice; maybe use lengths of acc cord with loops in the end?
  • compression stuff sack for sleeping bag
  • gloves!
    Gear list for expedition - entries with a * are shared for an entire team
  • pack
  • *tent- I-Tent & Bivy sack could work for 3 people. Otherwise need another 2-man 4-season tent
  • sleeping bag- 0 degree or equivalent
  • full length sleeping pad- as thick as possible
  • boots- plastic if possible, leather otherwise. Waterproof is necessary
  • clothing- rig for long exposure to cold. Should have additional layers when temps are 0-10 F. No cotton.
  • gloves- warm gloves (waterproof a plus) and also liners, if available
  • hat
  • sunglasses/goggles- need side shields on glasses
  • sunscreen- in case of sunny weather
  • gaiters- full length ones
  • crampons- 10 or 12 point glacier walkers; front points useful
  • mountain axe- a single axe should be sufficient
  • axe leash or daisy chain- include a 'biner on the daisy
  • helmet- to protect against rock and ice fall
  • harness- for attaching to the rope for crevasse rescue, need a locking 'biner as well
  • chest harness- can be 9' piece of webbing and a 'biner
  • ascenders- can be acc. cord tied into loops for Prussiks
  • acc. cord- useful for tying pack to back of harness
  • pulley- at least 1 per team
  • *stove- 1+ per 2 people, with fuel; 1 dinner, 1 breakfast + 1 extra day
  • *pot for stove- multi-quart, 1 pot per stove
  • *snow protection- 4 pickets, 2 ice screws?
  • *miscellaneous 'biners- locking and non-
  • *rope- use my 10.2mmx60m
  • food- just add water stuff, no cooking time; fuel precious. lunch is trail mix. breakfast normally oatmeal. Need 1 dinner, 1 breakfast, 1-2 lunchs + 1 day extra, just in case.
  • water bottles- 2+ quarts/person; insulated holders handy
  • *snow shovel- use mine
  • cup, spoon, bowl- I use my MSR titanium cup & teapot; lexan spoon
  • *first-aid kit- use mine?
  • headlamp- as light as possible; leave the spare batteries at home; bring brand new ones
  • *compass- maybe also take a GPS, just for fun.
  • *camera- I will not come back with no pictures again!
    Stuff to practice before the climb
  • Harness and rope use
  • Crampon use
  • Self arrest with ice axe
  • Crevasse rescue
    • Arresting the fall
    • Setting the anchor & Z-pulley
    • hauling
    • ascending the rope with Prussiks/ascenders
  • Tent setup
  • Stove setup and use